Thursday, 31 January 2013

Dogs 101 - Puppy Training | Puppies

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House Training Tip- Should your dog ring a bell?

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American Bulldog Puppy Training The Easy Way In 5 Simple Steps

Let's make it fun for you and the new member of your family "Your beautiful American Bulldog Puppy". Just follow the 5 simple and easy to apply steps listed below and you'll have yourself a well balanced, loving and sociable dog in the future.

Step # 1: House Training.
Your little puppy is just like a little baby meaning he will want to relieve himself regularly, usually around every 45 minutes or so... Your puppy will want to go to the toilet after drinking, sleeping, playing and especially if he is excited.

After he's had a drink take him outside and wait with him until he has done his business, he might go straight away or it could take some time, so be patient with him and try not to take him back in until he's done his business. If you take him in to early and let him do the deed inside, he will form the habit of waiting to back in and that will not be good for either of you.

The same goes for sleeping. After his nap just go through the cycle above, if you are going to play with him and get him excited then the best place to do it is outside as he will pee without any warning at all. Through constant repetition always try to take him to a designated place to do his business so that he gets a feel for where he should go. Associating him to the outside as the place to go to the toilet will eventually become the norm for him and soon you will find that he will whine, bark or scratch at the door when he does need to go.

Step # 2: Socialization.
Any dog not properly socialized especially from a young age, becomes a liability to all he comes into contact with and it's the owners duty of care to ensure that their dog is approachable and safe, not only for the dogs sake but for the owners and the general public also.

Socialization like all aspects of training is best done when the dog is young of around 12 weeks old. Socializing him is not difficult and can be fun for you and him. What we must not forget is that your dog, or any dog for that matter, no matter what the breed, essentially deep down, wants to be sociable as this offers him security.

It is imperative that he sees other humans as friends and not something he should be fearful of, so with that said, the easy way to socialize him would be to take him everywhere you go within the boundaries of limitation and let everyone you meet, touch, stroke and caress him…He'll love the attention.


 





Socialization should be a pleasant experience for him and one great trick is to carry a bag of his favorite treats with you and when you introduce him to other people, hand them one of his treats for them to give to him, this way he becomes accustomed to other peoples hands and sees them as something not to be fearful of. Introduce him to other animals, being mindful that the other animals you introduce him to are fit and healthy…Do Not however try to introduce him to any dogs that are roaming free as an attack from such an animal will cause no amount of set backs.

Take him for long walks in the park, have other members of the family, friends and their children brush him and take him for walks. Take him regularly to have his nails clipped and his teeth cleaned. All this type of handling will ensure that you will have a well balanced dog in the future knowing that he has nothing to fear from humans and if he has nothing to fear from humans there is no need for him to go on the defense.

Step # 3: Nipping and Biting.
Puppies as part of their learning curve and socialization procedure instinctively will nip and bite, it forms part of their play time, communication and social standing, but does this make it okay for them to do it? Well yes and no! Puppies will nip and bite regardless, as it is part of their generic make up, which goes on to form their social standing within the group to which they are part of.

It is important that you establish who the boss is right away, now I don't mean you do this in an aggressive manner, on the contrary, an affirmative NO while pointing your finger at him and making eye contact will be enough to get the message across. You should include members of your family and friends to take part also. Obviously you are not going to stop him nipping and biting at your first attempt, so repetition is the key here, so it may take a little time, patience will be your key to success on this one. If you don't nip this one in the bud at the outset it will cause many problems down the road and he will not be a very nice dog to be around when he is older, he has to learn to play by the rules…Period. 



Step # 4: Chewing.
The little blighters it seems will chew just about anything they can get their little razor sharp, needle-like teeth on. The new pair of slippers granny bought you last year has took on a whole new function. They are no longer there to keep your feet warm, oh no, they are there to be shaken, tossed, thrown around the room, torn and snarled at. What about the carpet you just had laid, those few protruding strands are just too much to resist.

But why do they do it? Well apart from it being fun, there are a number of other factors to take into consideration such as teething. It must be awful for them cutting their teeth and so relief comes in the form of chewing.

The solution for this would be to give them a variety of different toys of different shapes and textures to play with, these toys can be quite varied from hard and soft rubber bones and balls, an old shirt or skirt (buttons and zips taken off please), squeaky toys, your brand new slippers (just kidding) you just have to use your imagination and of course your common sense.

I have heard it suggested that a ball of rope would be useful, but in my opinion rope strands can be swallowed and could cause stomach or intestine problems not to mention give you a hefty vet bill? Common sense is the number one rule here.

Our aim in providing such toys is to create a diversion tactic from your clothing and furniture onto something that is okay for then to destroy. Most of the chewing will be done when you are out or in bed so just make sure there are plenty of other things for him to concentrate on by scattering his toys all over the place.





Step # 5: Barking.
Consistent and continual barking is socially unacceptable, so I will to give you a few tips here that should help you greatly to quell this behavior.

Lack of stimulation can play a big part in his continual barking, so are you spending enough time with him, does he have enough play things and does he receive enough exercise, what about his environment?

Puppies along with adult dogs can become quite lonely if you spend a lot of time away from them. They need interaction and stimulation. No one would like to shut up alone in a room all day or night or tethered to a pole with nothing to occupy the mind, it would be enough to drive you stir crazy and your dog is no different, so spend quality time with him. If he feels he's had the attention he needs he will quite happily relax, sleep and occupy himself, but only if he has had some part of you during the day.

What about his play things are they stimulating enough or are they old, bland and boring, does he have enough, and are they of different shapes, sizes and textures, are they replaced often? I'm afraid only you can answer that one. Just make sure he's got enough to occupy himself with when you are not around.

Are you tiring him out enough, do you take him for long walks, runs in the park or play ball with him? After a session with you does he come back panting gasping for a drink? Regular and consistent exercise is not only good for him; it's good for you too. Good regular exercise is life changing for your dog and if you are consistent with it, you will have one happy bunny on your hands.

His environment can also play a big part in his continual barking, are there other dogs in your area that are continually barking if so, this could be a trigger for him to communicate with what is going on in the outside world, or is he being teased? Have a look and listen for any one or combination of factors; once you have recognized the problem, then you know there is something you can do about it. Have you changed house? A new location may be a little unsettling for him, in which case, you will need to take him out often until he becomes accustom with his new surroundings.

Consistency, perseverance, patience and gentle reinforcement are the key ingredients to having a well balanced obedient, well behaved dog. If that is the dog of your dreams then don't blame or shame him, instead…Train Him.


There are American Bulldog "secrets" professional dog trainers would prefer you didn't know! But you will find them all here: Click Here!


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Shih Tzu - Dealing With Housebreaking Problems

The best house training uses the shih tzu's own instincts to avoid soiling its bed to train the shih tzu where and where not to eliminate. That is the basis behind crate training, in which the shih tzu is confined to its crate in the absence of the owner, and den training, in which the shih tzu is confined to a small area of the home. In essence, the crate, or the room, becomes the shih tzu's den. Shih Tzu are naturally very clean animals, and they try their best to avoid using their dens as toilets.

This type of training usually works very well, both for shih tzu puppies and for older shih tzu. Problems with this type of toilet training are usually the result of not understanding the signals the shih tzu is sending, not being consistent with feeding times, or trying to rush the process.

While the house training process can be sped up somewhat by consistently praising the shih tzu and rewarding it for toileting in the proper place, some shih tzu cannot be rushed through this important process. It is always best to house train the shih tzu properly the first time than to go back and retrain a problem shih tzu.

If the dog continues to soil the den area after house training, the most likely reason is that the owner has left the shih tzu in the den for too long. Another reason may be that the den area is too large. In this case, the best strategy is to make the den area smaller or to take the shih tzu to the toilet area more frequently.

If the shih tzu soils the bed that has been provided in the den area, it is most likely because the owner has left the shih tzu there for too long, and the shih tzu had an understandable accident. Or it could be that the shih tzu has not yet adopted this area as the bed. In addition, urinary tract infections and other medical conditions can also cause shih tzu to soil their beds. It is important to have the shih tzu thoroughly checked out by a veterinarian to rule out any medical problems.

One other reason for house training accidents that many people overlook is boredom. Shih tzu who are bored often drink large amounts of water and therefore must urinate more frequently than you might think. If you notice your shih tzu consuming large amounts of water, be sure to take the shih tzu to the established toilet area more often, and provide the shih tzu with toys and other distractions to eliminate boredom.

Boredom is the root cause of many shih tzu behavior problems, not only house training issues. Chewing and other destructive behaviors are also often caused by boredom and separation anxiety.

Other problems with house training can occur when the shih tzu's den is not properly introduced. In some cases dogs can react to the den as if it is a prison or a punishment. Those shih tzu may exhibit signs of anxiety, such as whining, chewing and excessive barking. It is important for the shih tzu to feel secure in its den, and to think of it as a home and not a cage.

The best way to house train a shih tzu puppy or shih tzu dog, or to re-house train a problem shih tzu, is to make yourself aware of the shih tzu's habits and needs. Creating a healthy, safe sleeping and play area for your shih tzu, as well as a well defined toilet area, is important for any house training program.

House training is not always an easy process, but it is certainly an important one. The number one reason that dogs are surrendered to animal shelters is problems with inappropriate elimination, so a well structured house training program can literally be a lifesaver for your shih tzu.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder in Indiana. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com


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Teach a Puppy to Sit | Teacher's Pet With Victoria Stilwell

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Capturing Calmness- how to train calmness in dogs- dog training

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When to Get Your Dog Spayed or Neutered

So many people who get a new puppy are overwhelmed with the responsibility of it all that they don't have time to stop and think between all of the vet visits, the potty training, and the play time. However, one thing that every new doggie family has to consider is whether or not they should have their dog spayed or neutered. This is a big decision for most households, and not one that should be taken lightly or done without discussion and consideration.



Unless you're planning to use your dog for breeding or showing, it's best to have your dog fixed. There are many complications that can arise from leaving a female or male dog intact. For male dogs the main health concern is cancer; however, having your male dog neutered will also help to curb a lot of unappealing behavior like marking territory and running off to try and mate. The risk for an un-spayed female dog, though, is much greater. Female dogs who are not fixed can develop infected uteruses, have an increased risk of developing mammary cancer, have pregnancy complications or even hormone problems if they remain in tact.



If you're going to get your pet fixed, you'll also need to take into consideration the age at which the surgical procedure should take place. Many pet owners don't realize that having their dog spayed or neutered at a relatively young age is extremely beneficial to their pet. For example, if female dogs are spayed before they ever go into heat - at approximately six to eight months old - then the chance that they will have mammary cancer is almost zero percent. This complete elimination of cancer complications is an extremely appealing reason for many pet owners to have their dogs spayed.



However, some people still believe the old wives tales that say that allowing a female dog to whelp at least one litter will calm her down and be healthier for her. This could not be further from the truth. In allowing your dog to have a litter of puppies, you are exposing her to potentially life-threatening consequences from complications in the pregnancy, including disease or infection. It even increases their risk for cancer, and the influx of hormones and anxiety that come with a pregnancy can make your dog more aggressive.



Male dogs are slightly different than females in the sense that there is no set "heat cycle" of hormones that you're trying to prevent in order to lower their risk of cancer. It's still a good idea, though, to get your male dog fixed at a relatively early age - approximately six months to a year - in order to ensure that they live a long, active, and healthy life. Outside of testicular and prostate cancer, male dogs that are left unfixed tend to grow aggressive and territorial. This can lead to destructive behavioral patterns like biting, urinating in the house to mark property, running away, and a resistance to instruction.



These are just a few of the reasons why it's recommended that pet owners should get their dogs spayed and neutered at an early age to avoid complications. It's never a bad idea to discuss your concerns with a veterinarian to get the most complete picture of your dog's health. Working together, you can make the best decision about how and why your pet should be fixed.





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Rescue Dog Training - How to Control Your Dog's Barking


Interestingly, the domesticated dog barks far more frequently than their ancestors. Possibly because many breeds have been taught to bark to better perform the various tasks for which they were bred - protection, shepherding, tracking.

Today, your dog will find lots of reasons to bark even if he isn't relegated to protecting the back 40 acres from poachers, or corralling the sheep and goats in the family room. He may bark to assert dominance; to defend his territory; from loneliness; out of frustration if he cannot get his way; pent-up energy; noises; excessive confinement; or strangers in the house. Also, some dogs are far more predisposed to barking than others. The small, high string breeds - Yorkies, Schnauzers, Beagles - are well known for the persistent barking; while Newfoundlands, Bloodhounds, Greyhounds and Rottweilers seldom bark.

Naturally, since many rescue dogs are of the mutt variety, you just can't be sure what genes your dog is packing.

While it's not realistic, or even necessary to expect your dog to cease from barking entirely, you should look forward to eventually having control over incessant, annoying barking. Before you begin your training program, make sure you are not at least partially responsible for your dog's barking problem.

Do you jump up and take your dog for a walk when he barks at the door? If he barks at the box of biscuits sitting on the counter, do you give him one? Does he bark when you leave the room, causing you to forget the trip to the refrigerator and scurry back to the couch to keep the peace? In short, don't reward him in any fashion when he barks for what he wants.

But whatever the root causes of your dog's barking, there are well-proven behavioral techniques that can be used to teach him not to bark unless requested by you to do so.

First, from the 10,000 foot level, a well-exercised, healthy dog who has had socialization training will probably be less inclined to be a frenzied, constant barker. So, be sure those bases are covered.

Invariably however, there will still be cases when the problem needs to be nipped in the cold, wet snout, so to speak.

Naturally, like all corrective training, it is necessary to scold your dog while in the act. Otherwise your action will only cause confusion in your dog's "live for the moment" mind. And of course, always be prepared to reward for the proper behavior with petting, treats and praise. Be sure to use the phrase you use with all of your other training sessions - if he isn't barking, "good dog - yes - no bark" is a phrase I learned to use from the training resource referenced below.

Of course, commands alone aren't always enough. So conditioning is required. For example, if your dog commences to bark as soon as you leave, try standing outside the door. As soon as the first bark is released, open the door with a firm, "no bark" or "quiet". Do this repeatedly until your dog manages silence for five minutes or more at a stretch. Then deliver your "good dog - yes - no bark" with a tasty treat. Like all training, patience and persistence will be required. Hopefully you won't have to replace the hinges on your door before you achieve success.

If your dog is the type that barks commands at you all day while you're relaxing in your easy chair, try the old "I'm going to ignore you" tactic. If you've been married as long as I have, you should be good at this already. Simply turn your head or, even get up and walk away, out of sight until the barking ceases. If he follows, don't give him any attention or even eye contact unless the barking stops - then praise him appropriately.

If these techniques fail, move on to some slightly more drastic measures, such as a dog whistle, a simple spray of water in his face, or a loud clap inches from his snout until he associates the barking with the "punishment". Praise when he begins to get it. Hopefully, your dog, unlike your children, will not have to go though his entire adolescence before he understands what behavior you expect from him.

There are also several "band-aids" you can employ to keep your sanity as you progress through this training.

If he scurries away as you are attempting to correct him, put him on leash so he'll be close enough to associate the scolding with the bad behavior. If you discover that loud sounds outside seem to trigger a barking frenzy, play music, or leave a radio or TV on. If he is stimulated by activity outside, close the curtains. Again, I like to think of these as temporary measures until the training works. It's not a good thing when you have to alter your lifestyle to keep your dog calm and well-adjusted.

Once you have succeeded in ceasing the barking on command, you would be wise to go the distance by employing the two-prong training technique - SPEAK & QUIET. This too was explained for me in an eBook available from the resource I reference below.

Step 1 - Teach your dog to bark on command. This requires a bunch of treats, plenty of praise and that old one-two punch of patience and persistence. The command is "SPEAK". When a bark immediately follows, reward with a treat. Alternate the treat with lavish praise since there will be times when you are plum all out of dog treats on your person. Give the praise immediately after the first bark so your dog doesn't go back to his old ways of relentless barking. Once you and your buddy have mastered this step, go on to...

Step 2 -- Teach your dog to be quiet on command. This is the critical, albeit tricky part of the training. Again, with a pocketful of treats, give the command your dog learned means to bark - SPEAK. But this time, allow your dog to continue barking by withholding the treat. Then, start repeating the word QUIET, until the barking stops. Then immediately give the treat or praise.

You will need to work on the two-part technique each day for ten to fifteen minute sessions. But do not go longer than your dog can pay attention. Soon, your efforts will pay handsome dividends with a dog that knows when to speak and knows when to listen.


Dog Training: House training a puppy or rescue dog

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Dog Training: House training a puppy or rescue dog

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Home Remedies For Itchy Dogs

There are many possible reasons that could be causing your dog to itch so much. Parasites in the skin, skin infections, mange, dry skin, allergies, or your dog may not be getting the proper nutrition they need.
If you suspect that your dog is itching because of a skin infection, or a parasitic infection, here are a couple of herbs that may help with your dog's skin conditions. Whenever my dog is itching, I am always wary to put on store bought itch relievers, as my dog tends to lick the area as well as scratch it. These two herbs are safe to use, and you won't have to worry about your dog getting sick from licking it off.
Calendula, also known as Marigold, is great for skin infections. Thyme is also great for skin infections, and it has natural antiseptic properties that will that will clean out and help to heal your dog's skin issue. Thyme also helps to fight parasitic infections that may be causing your dog to itch so much.
To take advantage of these herbs you can make a strong tea with a calendula or thyme tea bag. Use 2 tea bags for one cup water. When it cools you can either put it in a spray bottle to spray directly onto the problem areas, or you can put the tea into your dog shampoo and use it as a rinse.
If your dog's skin is flaky and appears dry, instead ofusing the herbs above you can try olive oil. dogs with dry itchy skin may not be getting the essential oils they need to condition their skin. Canned and dry dog food does not give a dog nearly enough of the nutrients they need. If this is the case it is a good idea to put a tablespoon of olive oil in their food.
Olive oil contains healthier fat than corn oil and butter, and it contains no cholesterol. Olive oil is very helpful for the skin and hair, and it helps in digestion. It will help your dog have a shiny coat.
Olive oil can also be applied directly to the skin to further help condition and soothe an itchy dog's skin, just be careful of it rubbing off of them onto other things, such as your couch or the carpet.
Fish oil is also a good choice for giving your dog healthy skin. I give my dog a fish oil capsule once a day, as well as some olive oil in her food. Both olive oil and fish oil will help with dry skin.
If you are looking for at home remedies, olive oil and fish oil will help your dog have healthier skin and coat, while Calendula and Thyme will help combat skin infections, and skin conditions, all without side affects or the warning of possibly causing any type of harm to your dog.
The author is a full time breeder of Yorkies and Maltipoos, along with several other dog breeds. Author runs and operates Yorkies Galore where there are many cute Yorkshire terriers, Maltese, Maltipoo and other breeds of puppies for sale.


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Saturday, 26 January 2013

16 week labrador retriever puppy dog training and tricks

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